Muscat

A short history

The forts of Al Jalali and Al Mirani have guarded Muscat's natural harbour since the 1580s, when Portugal held the port as a link in its Indian Ocean trade route; Omani forces retook it in 1650. What makes the city look the way it does now is a deliberate choice rather than an accident of history. From the modernisation drive that began in 1970, development was paired with heritage rules that kept the coastline low-rise and the old quarters intact — which is why Muscat reads as a place with a past rather than a place built last decade.

Why travellers love it

It lands you somewhere that looks nothing like where you left: mountains, wadis and desert within an easy drive, at a pace noticeably slower than the cities nearby. For a long weekend it asks very little of you and gives back a genuine change of scene.

Before you go

Oman issues e-visas to many nationalities and waives the requirement for others, including short stays for several passports; check what applies to yours before booking. Come between October and April — summer here is severe, and the wadis are the whole point of the trip. Hiring a car is worth it: the best of Oman is an hour or two inland, and public transport does not go there.

Highlights

• Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
• Mutrah Souq and the Corniche
• The views from Al Jalali Fort
• A day trip to Wadi Shab