Seoul

A short history

The Joseon dynasty established the capital here in 1394 and built Gyeongbokgung the same year. It remains the largest of the city's five grand palaces, though what stands today is largely reconstruction — the palace was destroyed and rebuilt more than once, through Japanese occupation and then the Korean War. The changing of the guard at its main gate is a restoration too, but a carefully researched one, and it is the easiest way to see the Joseon court at anything like its own scale.

Why travellers love it

It is the centre of the K-pop and K-drama culture that has spread across the world, and the halal restaurant scene has grown quickly, particularly around Itaewon. Practically, the transport system is one of the best anywhere and signage is bilingual, which makes a first visit far easier than the size of the city suggests.

Before you go

Requirements differ by passport — some nationalities enter visa-free, some need an electronic travel authorisation, some a visa — so check yours specifically rather than assuming. March to May and September to November are the best windows; the summer is hot and wet and the winter is properly cold. Wearing hanbok gets you into the palaces free, which is why so many visitors are wearing it.

Highlights

• The changing of the guard at Gyeongbokgung
• Bukchon Hanok Village
• Myeongdong shopping
• The Han River parks