Marrakech

A short history

The Koutoubia Mosque's twelfth-century minaret is the tallest structure in the old city, and it has stayed that way by law for close to a thousand years. That single rule is a large part of why the medina still reads as one thing rather than as a historic quarter with towers behind it: nothing competes with the minaret, so the low ochre roofline runs unbroken to the Atlas on the horizon.

Why travellers love it

The craft tradition here — zellij tilework, leather, lanterns, textiles — is a genuinely distinct aesthetic, even within the Arab world, and the riad culture means you can stay inside a courtyard house in the medina rather than in a hotel on a ring road. The Atlas is close enough for a day trip, which few cities of this size can offer.

Before you go

Many nationalities enter Morocco visa-free for short stays; check what applies to your passport. March to May and October to November are the right months — July and August in Marrakech are punishing. Agree the price before a taxi moves, and treat the first number in the souks as an opening position rather than an insult.

Highlights

• Jemaa el-Fnaa after dark
• Bahia Palace
• The Majorelle Garden
• A day trip into the Atlas Mountains